The Best in Vernazza

It's a known thing that to get good food, you go where the locals go. Trattoria da Sandro is no exception. Just down from the train station, the very first restaurant you come upon is Trattoria da Sandro and after being one of the hardest hit businesses in the raging landslide of October 25th, they are back in business and better than ever! (Look at that beautiful deck, my husband built that deck!)

Vernazza: Six Months Later

As many may know, the Cinque Terre has been working double time to get Vernazza and Monterosso back to normality. It has now been six months since the fateful flood that took lives and destroyed these two villages. But in this brief period of time, people have come together from all over to accomplish what we all expected would take years. Today, a walk down the main roads in old town Monterosso and a stroll through the piazza in Vernazza give the feeling of near normalcy, almost as if nothing had ever happened. Kate Little, who writes LittleParadiso blog, says that seeing pictures of the flood compared to Monterosso today “almost seems like waking up from bad dream”.

An Extra Special Birthday

This year is the first year in my entire life that I celebrated my birthday in Italy. For some reason or other, I have always been outside of Italy for my birthday. So this year, I had high expectations of how to pass my special day. I had considered many options, many places, but in the end I decided that what I wanted most was to spend a lovely day in the Cinque Terre, visiting friends and enjoying the views.

It started with a morning train ride to Manarola to have breakfast at my new favorite place, the Bar dell'Amore. Our friends recently took over this jewel of place located right on the path called Via dell'Amore, or Walkway of Love, between Manarola and Riomaggiore. Make sure to read all about this great new bar here.

Travelers: The Cinque Terre is Open

As we head towards the spring season, many are wondering if the Cinque Terre is open, if the hikes are hikeable and if it's even worth keeping the Cinque Terre in their travel plans. The answer is an overwhelming YES!!!

Before going into details, here is an overview: The trains are running on normal, regular schedules with stops to all five villages without interruption or access controls. Riomaggiore, Manarola and Corniglia had little to no damage from the floods and all shops, restaurants and hotels/rooms are open for business.

Vernazza Still Needs Your Help

Donations, small or large, are an incredibly important part of the rebuilding effort in Vernazza. If you still have not had a chance to donate, or would like to give more, there are several options and programs available. There are two Non-profits funding the rebuilding projects, one directly through the Commune di Vernazza and the other, set up by three American expats in Vernazza, called Save Vernazza. Both accept payments through PayPal.

  

Save Vernazza, ONLUS

Started by American expats in Vernazza, they keep their website, entirely in English, updated with the latest information, pictures, videos and the current rebuilding projects. Check out their site because it is a wealth of information! They can also help you organize a fundraising event in your area. They also accept your information if you would like to come to volunteer during the rebuilding. For their donation information, click here.

Associazione Per Vernazza Futura, ONLUS

Their website, all in Italian, keeps a running total of the amount aquired and gives updates on the rebuilding projects. All the donation information can be found here.

Vernazza: January Update

January has been a busy month in Vernazza. It welcomed the new year, new projects, new donations and even welcomed back many of it’s residents. But it also said goodbye to a tragic year, painful memories and the seemingly permanent and comforting presence of the cooks from the Marina Militare. 

  

   
With their portable trailer, the big tent and some powerful generators, Piazza Marconi was the "epicenter" of activity and comforting hot meals. These guys, lovingly nicknamed "The Navy Cooks", have been there from the very beginning, cooking meals for the residents, the volunteers, the military and the emergency crews. Here they were cooking Christmas dinner. On January 5, their work was finally over and with big hugs and big tears, they were bid an emotional farewell with a goodbye party thrown by the grateful residents of Vernazza.

Leave Your Mark In The 5 Terre

I just learned about a fantastic initiative put together by the town of Monterosso, local artists and residents to create sponsored tiles in a 'dry wall' project. With a donation of just 150 euros, you can have your name, your affiliation or a small phrase carved into a stone-like tile that will make up a future wall in the gorgeous Cinque Terre town. Larger donations will provide larger "stones".

For more information, visit the website Rebuild Monterosso and if you would like to participate, email them at info@rebuildmonterosso.com.

Santa Comes To Vernazza

Christmas celebrations will last the next few days in Vernazza, but today's celebrations were started on a sad note. The morning of the 23rd, Vernazza was finally able to put to rest the three victims of the flood, Pina, Giuseppe and Sauro. It was a long ordeal of bureaucratic nightmares trying to get their bodies released from France. In fact, the funeral was supposed to be several days prior, but last minute paperwork kept delaying their release back to their families. In the end, the funeral was held the same day as the Christmas party for the children.

Vernazza: December Update

Well, Christmas is just around the corner and it has been a very busy December in Vernazza. Not only have the workers continued their excavations of the canal and the upper road into Vernazza, but Vernazza itself has been busy with meetings, interviews and project planning. We have also had a fair share of emotional ups and downs, frights and celebrations. 

  

The beginning of December brought the first of the winter storms, and the first festa or town party. December 5th gave a little taste of the power of the seas with mareggiata, or high, rough seas that crash against the rocks in a violent display of nature’s power. Fortunately, it did not cause any damage and everything calmed down for the Festa dell’Immacolata on the 8th.

Versatile Blogger Award!

 
I was nominated for the Versatile Blogger Award by Sam at TwoBlackDoggies. Thank you so much for the compliment, I really appreciate it. I have learned a great deal about the power of the internet in this last month. Not only its power of communication to spread news and information on an almost instant basis, but also the power to bring people together, no matter how far apart. It has been truly spectacular to see the outpour of ‘virtual’ love sent to Vernazza and all the victims of the October floods. It has been so heartwarming to read hundreds of messages, comments and emails; chat forums and Facebook groups all lending words of support and solidarity. People sharing their stories of their trip to the Cinque Terre or their special experience in Vernazza and wanting to help in whatever way they could. Donating money, sending relief packages and promising a return trip to the “Pearl of the 5 Terre”. 

There is now some news coverage available, but during the immediate aftermath of this tragic event, I quickly learned about the power of blogs. For several weeks it was only a handful of blogs spreading information on the disaster—news that wasn’t available from the media. And working together, linking to each other, we created a network that drew people from the tip of Australia to Singapore; from India to Tunisia; from South Africa to Finland! Never in my life did I think I would be part of a blogging group that would become the source of news for the entire planet. It has been truly amazing. So thank you to everyone that has been a part of this, has linked to our blogs or helped to spread the news about the help that is needed here in Liguria. 

Vernazza: One Month Later

   
Today marks one month since the flood that devastated the Cinque Terre. In just 31 days, progress has been amazing. People still describe walking through town as walking through a war zone, but as I have described previously, the spirit and heart of the people has persevered above all else. That has made the difference between Vernazza being a destroyed tourist destination or a thriving community that will quickly rebuild.
   
Here is a lovely video put together by an American filmaker in Germany. He has been back and forth to the 5 Terre for three years filming a documentary on the Cinque Terre's cultural history and unsure future of their Sciacchetrà wine. While recently in Vernazza, he took some footage the clean-up in process.
  

Vernazza: Surf's Up!

On November 17, Levanto (near Monterosso) hosted the ASP WLT Bear Pro International Longboard Surfing Tour. Thanks to a "Lay Day" where there were no waves, some of the contestants got together to visit Vernazza and see firsthand what was really going on. Bear Pro has put together a beautiful video documenting what they saw. It gives some great views of the work in action. Take a look!

Bear Pro 2011

Links:

For the original story of what happened, see: Disaster Strikes Vernazza

For information on how to donate, see: Donations to Save Vernazza
If you have travel plans to the 5 Terre, see: Notice to 5 Terre Travelers 
For all related stories, see label: Vernazza Updates

Brava Vernazza, I'm Impressed!

I am happy to report that a week of mostly dry weather has afforded much progress in Vernazza! Last week, a schedule was set forth to clear via Roma (the main street) from the piazza to the train bridge by Saturday, and they have accomplished it as planned! Also, many homes have been reconnected to running water and workers plan to have the sewers fully functioning by Monday

Many businesses have been excavated from the debris in an impressive earth moving achievement. Look, you can see the road! But how did they do it?

Vernazza: A Sigh of Relief

 

The sun came out from behind the rain clouds today, giving many a big sigh of relief. It has been a nerve-wracking weekend in the 5 Terre, as it has been surrounded by unbelievable torrential rains causing flash floods in several surrounding cities. Miraculously, the massive storms seemed to curve around the 5 Terre, sparing Monterosso and Vernazza from heavy downpour. Such great news! There was one or two days of steady rain, but nothing out of the ordinary and nothing that caused further damage. Whew! I know a lot of people have been breathing sighs of relief--I certainly have.

Vernazza has been nearly empty due to a precautionary evacuation. There was concern about the canal still being blocked with debris and the rest of the "live" landslides slipping further down the hill. Only a few dozen people remained to keep watch, including emergency workers like fire fighters, forestry specialists and police; about 40 volunteers and the mayor.

Giving Thanks

This weekend, in Vernazza, has been a quiet one...in fact, it may be the quietest weekend in the last several hundred years. Friday afternoon, the town was evacuated as a precaution ahead of terrible storms headed their way. Tensions have been high with the weather reports of torrential rains for the next three days straight and the news of the horrible flooding in Genova.

According to Vernazza's mayor, the only ones remaining in the village during the evacuation period are a handful of police, a small group of Forestry service, 3 carabinieri, 7 mariners and about 40 registered volunteers. He said the night passed with very little rain, but Saturday brought constant rain for most of the day. So far, everything is holding and looking okay. 

Emergency in Genova!

The latest update on the terrible storm hitting the coast of Liguria again is shocking. The amount of rain dumping down on Genova is drawing comments from locals that they have never seen rain like this before and many are asking: "What have done to deserve this?"

To ad insult to injury, some of the people left without homes or evacuated from last weeks storm are staying in Genova! Poverini!

Again, I am not in Italy right now, so I am GLUED to the BBC in the hopes of seeing some news reports on what is happening in Italy and THERE HAS STILL BEEN ZERO COVERAGE! In fact, I just saw a quick weather report discussing the "heavy storms hitting southern France causing a risk of flooding and POSSIBLY threatening some flooding in northern Italy." POSSIBLY? Here is a video just uploaded to YouTube after HOURS of rainfall caused destructive flooding in the city:

Vernazza: Pics of Progress!

  

 This afternoon, the remaining 150 inhabitants of Vernazza were calmly evacuated as a precautionary measure in the face of more bad weather for the weekend. An awful storm has been on course to hit the 5 Terre tonight and unleash 3 days of heavy rain and rough seas.
Everyone visualize or pray for clear blue skies over Liguria--it couldn't hurt!
These are some of the many sandbags put in place to protect the work that has been done. 

  

I also wanted to provide some of the amazing photos coming out of Vernazza after today's cleaning efforts. There was a lot to do...

Vernazza: Good News and Bad News

  

The clean-up effort is progressing at an amazing speed!

The tireless work of the people can be seen with a clean piazza that is now acting as a command center and food service area.

Il Ristorante Gambero Rosso

 

Many businesses are now accessible, like this one, where my husband worked for years and my father-in-law helped remodel. More good news today was the joyful recovery of a beloved dog, still alive after being trapped for a week. 

 

Notice to 5 Terre Travelers

As you may know, the 5 Terre was hit with a devasting storm last week that completely destroyed Vernazza and badly damaged Monterosso (For the story, see: Disaster Strikes Vernazza; for new updated information, see: Vernazza: Good News and Bad News or click the label "Vernazza Updates" for all related stories). I have received many questions from travelers planning to visit in the coming weeks. They have asked if they are still able to stay in the other towns that were not damaged and if they can still hike the trails. 

Please understand that the entire area is in crisis mode at the moment. Many of the roads are washed out and the rail lines are on limited service only for residents and emergency workers. The only hiking trail open at the moment is the Via dell'Amore in Riomaggiore, but all the other trails are closed from damage. As far as rooms and hotels go, even though the other towns are not as damaged, they are providing room and board for the people of Vernazza and Monterosso that have lost their homes or been evacuated. 

Donations to Save Vernazza

For an updated information, click "Home" or the label "Vernazza Updates" for all related stories.   

   
There has been an overwhelming amount of requests to donate funds specifically for Vernazza, as a way to give back to the warm people who have touched our hearts.

 ***UPDATE***

"Save Vernazza" is an Italian non-profit which was started by an American expat group in Vernazza for donating directly to Vernazza. Their website, entirely in English, accepts payments by credit card and Paypal. They will certainly do a great job of allocating funds with less bureaucratic backup than the Italians! They also keep their site updated with pictures and news coming from the workers. To donate to their fund, click here.